Birding Tour Brazil: Southeast Brazil – Atlantic Forest Endemics Paradise

Southeast Brazil – Atlantic Forest Endemics Paradise
September 2025

This classic southeast Brazil tour offers numerous highlights for those who are fond of spectacular birding sites and a great diversity of birds. Of the 1,868 bird species recorded in Brazil, 1,113 have been recorded in southeast Brazil, including a staggering 147 Brazilian endemics (61 percent of all endemic birds of Brazil). Despite being heavily populated, with 75 million people, a multitude of great birding sites can be found both in the vicinity of metropolitan areas as well as in remote areas of this fascinating part of the country. Join Birding Ecotours on this 15-day Brazil birding tour as we explore three main birding sites in the state of Sao Paulo.

Green-headed Tanager is one of the many tanagers we will target on this tour (photo Riccardo Boschetti).

First, we visit Intervales State Park, one of the finest birding destinations in southeast Brazil, where many amazing-looking birds can be found, such as Swallow-tailed Cotinga, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Large-tailed Antshrike, White-bearded Antshrike, and Hooded Berryeater, among many other specials.

We then continue to the well-known Ubatuba area, where we will be delighted by species such as Blond-crested Woodpecker, Bare-throated Bellbird, Spotted Bamboowren, Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant, and Festive Coquette.

Festive Coquette is one of the many specials we will look for around Ubatuba.

Finally, we spend a few days exploring Itatiaia National Park, one of the most famous birding sites in southeast Brazil. With a list of 357 species and comfortable accommodation, it is an excellent place to look for some sought-after species such as Green-crowned Plovercrest, Brazilian Ruby, Saffron Toucanet, Black-and-gold Cotinga, Slaty Bristlefront, Surucua Trogon, Green-billed Toucan, and a nice selection of colorful tanagers such as Green-headed, Gilt-edged, Brassy-breasted, and Red-necked Tanagers. After 15 days of great birding in Brazil you will be transferred to São Paulo to connect with your homebound flight.

This tour can be combined with our preceding Argentina and Brazil: Cerrado, Pantanal, and Iguazu Falls birding tour, and/or with our Brazil: Cerrado Endemics, Brazilian Merganser, and Maned Wolf birding tour which immediately follows this southeast Brazil birding tour.

Itinerary (15 days/14 nights)

Day 1. Arrival at São Paulo and transfer to Intervales

Upon your arrival at São Paulo airport (GRU), we will have an afternoon transfer to the Intervales State Park. If time permit, we will look for Long-trained Nightjar and with some luck, Rusty-barred Owl, which are found in the park after dark.

Overnight: Casa Pica Pau, Intervales State Park

Red-necked Tanager — one of the many tanager species we should see on this tour (photo Riccardo Boschetti).

Days 2-3 Two full days birding at Intervales State Park

We will have two full birding days to enjoy Intervales State Park, with our lodge conveniently located within the park. During our stay at Intervales State Park we will have the opportunity to find a multitude of species including Black-fronted Piping Guan, Purple-crowned Plovercrest, Sao Paulo Tyrannulet, Giant Antshrike, White-bearded Antshrike, Sharpbill, Bertoni’s Antbird, Rufous-breasted Leaftosser, Rufous-capped Spinetail, Grey-hooded Flycatcher, Scalloped Woodcreeper, Half-collared Sparrow, Eared Pygmy Tyrant, Blue-bellied Parrot, Black Hawk-Eagle, White-collared Foliage-gleaner, Star-throated Antwren, Cinnamon-vented Piha, Red-necked and Chestnut-backed Tanagers, Tufted Antshrike, Slaty-breasted Wood Rail, Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin, Squamate Antbird, Ochre-rumped Antbird, Hooded Berryeater, Oustalet’s Tyrannulet, Pavonine Cuckoo, Helmeted Woodpecker, Pallid Spinetail, Cinnamon-vented Piha, and Red-ruffed Fruitcrow. At night we have chances for Long-trained Nightjar, East Brazilian Pygmy Owl, and Rusty-barred Owl.

Overnight: Casa Pica Pau, Intervales State Park

Day 4. Transfer to Tapiraí and birding Toucan’s Trail

Toucan’s Trail is a private reserve of about 70 hectares (0.7 square kilometers), and the lodge offers great experiences to observe and photograph some of the most beautiful birds of the Atlantic Forest. A great attraction is the large number of feeders that support a good selection of species. Perhaps the main attraction here is the most-wanted Atlantic Royal Flycatcher, a Brazilian endemic, found only in places with clear water and preserved forest.

Atlantic Royal Flycatcher is a stunner when it lifts its brightly colored crest!

We will also look for species such as Variegated Antpitta, Dusky-legged Guan, Brazilian Ruby, Spot-billed Toucanet, Green-billed Toucan, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Yellow-fronted, Blond-crested and White-spotted Woodpeckers, Ochre-collared Piculet, Surucua Trogon, Black-throated Grosbeak, Olive-green, Magpie, and Azure-shouldered Tanagers, and at night we will try for Black-capped Screech Owl, and Tawny-browed Owl.

Overnight: Trilha dos Toucanos Lodge

Day 5. Birding Toucan’s Trail

We will have a full day birding the lodge grounds and will spend time watching the moth traps where every morning the lights attract endless numbers of bugs which allows visitors to witness many birds coming to feast on the bugs. Some of bird species we might find here include Tufted Antshrike, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Ferruginous Antbird, Planalto Woodcreeper, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Grey-capped and Planalto Tyrannulets, Grey-hooded Attila, Sibilant Sirystes, Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner, Long-tailed Tyrant, and Masked Water Tyrant.

Overnight: Trilha dos Toucanos Lodge

Day 6. Transfer to Sitio Espinheiro Negro

After breakfast we will transfer to our new accommodation which has nice bird feeders attracting numerous tanagers including Red-necked, and Green-headed Tanagers and with luck, the endemic Black-legged Dacnis. This small but charming private property also provides a hide from where is possible to see Ruddy Quail-Dove, the endemic Spot-winged Wood Quail, and with luck, Solitary Tinamou.

Overnight: Sitio Espinheiro Negro

Day 7. Transfer to Peruibe

After breakfast we will transfer to Guaraú in Peruíbe, located in the Juréia-Itatins Ecological Station, a paradise composed of a mosaic of different ecosystems. About 320 species are found in Guaraú, including 30 species endemic to Brazil and 11 species that are globally threatened. Our most important target bird here is the endemic Red-tailed Amazon plus other several regional and lowlands targets that we will be looking for the next two days.

Overnight: Pousada Samambaia Azul

Day 8. Birding Peruíbe

We will spend the full day looking for Red-tailed Amazon at their roosting sites and also target the endemic Black-backed Tanager. Additionally, we may encounter other species such as Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Star-throated Antwren, White-breasted Tapaculo, Black-legged Dacnis, White-banded Mockingbird,Long-billed Wren, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Buff-bellied Puffbird, Bicolored Conebill, and many more.

Overnight: Pousada Samambaia Azul

Day 9. Transfer to Ubatuba

After breakfast we will leave Peruíbe and drive to Ubatuba, near the Rio de Janeiro state border. We will spend three nights at Ubatuba to maximize our chances to see all the specials such as Festive Coquette, Saw-billed and Reddish Hermits, Brown-backed Parrotlet, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Dusky Leaftosser, Scaled Antbird, Salvadori’s and Unicolored Antwrens, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Slaty Bristlefront, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant, Spotted Bamboowren, Sao Paulo Tyrannulet, Buff-throated Purpletuft, Long-billed Wren, Red-necked and Brazilian Tanagers, and Green Honeycreeper. At night, with luck, we could find Black-capped Screech Owl, Striped Owl, and Mottled Owl.

Overnight: Ubatuba

Brazilian Tanager, another outrageously colored tanager that we’ll target on this tour (photo Riccardo Boschetti).

Days 10-11. Two full days birding at Ubatuba

We will spend two full days birding Ubatuba, looking for, in addition to the species listed above, Buff-bellied Puffbird, Pale-browed Treehunter, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner, Bare-throated Bellbird, Blue Manakin, Planalto Tyrannulet, Green-headed and Olive-green, Tanagers, Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant, Greenish Schiffornis, White-throated Spadebill, Grey-hooded Attila, Spot-billed Toucanet, Ochre-collared Piculet, Green-billed Toucan, and if we are lucky, Sharpbill, and the secretive Solitary Tinamou.

Overnight Ubatuba

Day 12 Transfer to Itatiaia National Park

Today we will transfer from Ubatuba to Itatiaia National Park. The vegetation of the park is exuberant, as is the avifauna. Itatiaia hosts many of Brazil’s exciting endemic species. Specials in the park include Saffron Toucanet, Green-billed Toucan, Green-crowned Plovercrest, Surucua Trogon, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Itatiaia Spinetail, Slaty Bristlefront, Brazilian Laniisoma, and Black-and-gold Cotinga.

Overnight: Hotel Do Ypê, Itatiaia

Blond-crested Woodpecker can be seen in Itatiaia National Park (photo Riccardo Boschetti).

Days 13-14. Two full days birding at Itatiaia National Park

We will spend two days looking for Green-crowned Plovercrest, Frilled Coquette, Brazilian Ruby, Saffron Toucanet, Pileated Parrot, Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Rufous-tailed Antbird, Itatiaia Spinetail, Serra do Mar and Grey-capped Tyrannulets, Black-and-gold Cotinga, White-bibbed Antbird, Velvety Black Tyrant, Pin-tailed Manakin, Brown, Brassy-breasted and Diademed Tanagers, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Itatiaia Spinetail, Black-capped Piprites, Black-billed Scythebill, Gilt-edged Tanager, and Speckle-breasted Antpitta, while at night we’ll try for Tawny-browed Owl.

Overnight: Hotel Ypê, Itatiaia

Several toucans and toucanets can be seen on this tour, including Saffron Toucanet.

Day 15. Departure from São Paulo

After some final morning birding around the lodge, we will leave towards São Paulo city and grab lunch along the road. We will then be transferred to the airport to connect with our international flights home.

Please note that the itinerary cannot be guaranteed as it is only a rough guide and can be changed (usually slightly) due to factors such as availability of accommodation, updated information on the state of accommodation, roads, or birding sites, the discretion of the guides, and other factors. In addition, we sometimes have to use a different guide from the one advertised due to tour scheduling or other factors.

Southeast Brazil – Atlantic Forest Endemics Paradise Trip Report,
September 2024

20 SEPTEMBER – 04 OCTOBER 2024

 By Eduardo Ormaeche

The gorgeous Red-breasted Toucan never fails to impress!

Overview

Our Southeast Brazil: Atlantic Forest Endemics Paradise tour was a resounding success. This exciting tour traverses one of the most avian-diverse regions in the Neotropics, focusing on the unique and threatened Atlantic Forests. These forests once stretched unbroken for nearly 2,000 miles (3,000 kilometers) along Brazil’s southern coast; today, more than 500 years after the Portuguese colonization, large-scale deforestation and population expansion have fragmented the forests to the extent that only 12% of the original forested area remains. Despite this tremendous loss, the Atlantic Forests remain exceptionally biodiverse with an estimated 891 bird species, second only to the Amazon rainforest, which boasts 1,300 species of birds – in an area four times the size!

Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world, so exploring the full extent of the Atlantic Forests is a lengthy undertaking. As a result, this trip focused on the most accessible birding hotspots located primarily in the state of São Paulo and the westernmost corner of Rio de Janeiro state. A considerable altitudinal range was covered on this tour, from sea level up to the high-elevation foothills of Agulhas Negras, Brazil’s eighth-highest peak at 9,156 feet (2,790 meters). Over 15 days, we travelled across São Paulo state, visiting classic birding destinations such as Intervales State Park, the coastal shores of Ubatuba at the base of the Serra do Mar Mountain Range, and Itatiaia National Park. We also visited relatively new locations that have only recently been put on the radars of birders, such as Trilha de Tucanos and Espinheiro Negro Lodge.

We managed to connect with a plethora of Atlantic Forest endemic species in addition to many of the region’s most iconic and coveted species. Highlights included Blond-crested Woodpecker, Black-fronted Piping Guan, Bare-throated Bellbird, Ochre-collared Piculet, Slaty Bristlefront, Dusky Purpletuft, Black-and-gold and Swallow-tailed Cotingas, Green-headed, Red-necked, Gilt-edged, Brazilian and Brassy-breasted Tanagers, Robust Woodpecker, Solitary Tinamou, Long-trained Nightjar, Long-tufted Screech Owl, Festive Coquette, Saw-billed Hummingbird, White-eyed Foliage-gleaner, Black-billed Scythebill, White-bibbed Antbird, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Red-breasted Toucan, Saffron Toucanet, and  Black-headed and Hooded Berryeaters.

Detailed Report

Day 1. Arrival in São Paulo and transfer to Intervales

A few of the participants arrived the evening before the start of the tour, and after collecting the remaining participants at São Paulo Guarulhos International Airport in the morning, we were ready to set off towards Intervales State Park.

The group was eager to get the trip list off to a good start, and while passing some of the canals in São Paulo, we added our first Green Ibis, Southern Lapwing, Tropical Kingbird, Grey-breasted Martin, Western Cattle Egret, Plumbeous and Swallow-tailed Kites, Crested Caracara, Ruddy Ground Dove, Eared Dove and other common species. Around midday, we stopped at our first Brazilian Conveniencia; these restaurants are strategically located along main roads, include fully supplied shops, and are very popular among locals. We tasted our first Brazilian steaks and enjoyed the exquisite Brazilian fruit juices here. After lunch, we continued on the lengthy road to Intervales. It was challenging to stop and bird along the freeway; however, we did manage to add Guira Cuckoo (Güirá from the Guarani Amerindian language, where the word means bird), Rufous Hornero (the national bird of Argentina), Great Kiskadee, Vermillion Flycatcher, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Pale-breasted Thrush and Sayaca Tanager (from the Guarani word “Saí-acú” which means “very vivid”).

After a long drive, we arrived at the park and called in at the local restaurant outside the park, where we arrived with time enough to squeeze in a short birding session, which yielded Green-winged Saltator, Cinnamon Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Bananaquit, Swallow Tanager, Cliff Flycatcher, Palm Tanager, Shiny Cowbird and Saffron Finch.

We then made our way to our accommodation within the park, which would become our base for the next three nights.

Day 2. Intervales State Park

We had an early start this morning to explore the lush forest around our cabins in the state park. After a good breakfast, we spent some time at the bird feeders next to the restaurant, where we had great views of Grey-throated Warbling Finch, Ruby-crowned Tanager (males and females), the beautiful Green-headed Tanager, the striking Brazilian Tanager, Golden-chevroned Tanager, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Golden-winged Cacique, Green-winged Saltator and Black-googled Tanager. Birds around the restaurant included Cliff Flycatcher, Grey-breasted Martin, House Wren, Buff-necked Ibis, Common Gallinule at the pond behind the house, Tropical Kingbird, Hooded Siskin, Purple-throated Euphonia, Roadside Hawk, Southern Yellowthroat, Brown Tanager, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Chalk-browed Mockingbird and Rufous-bellied Thrush (the national bird of Brazil).

After spending some time birding around the restaurant, we started tackling several sites in the park. We first visited a grassland area where the park ranger had an obliging Red-and-white Crake, which had been coming out into the open to feed on corn. We had crippling views of this small and secretive species at close range almost as soon as we arrived on site. Shortly after this unforgettable sighting, we connected with the striking Blond-crested Woodpecker and the uncommon Robust Woodpecker.

After this exciting session, we birded the trails in the park to look for the elusive Solitary Tinamou, which occasionally shows itself when the ranger leaves out corn at a feeder. After waiting for what felt like an eternity, we had a covey of the endemic and elusive Spot-winged Wood Quail coming right to our feet. The group was ecstatic! We stayed motionless until the birds moved on, and just as we were about to call it quits, the Solitary Tinamou approached slowly to claim his turn at the feeder. Macuco, the Portuguese name for Solitary Tinamou, gave us a whole performance! The first hours of the morning could not have been any better.

Other birds that were seen this morning included Slaty-breasted Wood Rail, Picazuro Pigeon, Plain Parakeet, Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet, Squirrel Cuckoo, White-collared Swift, Surucua Trogon, Campo Flicker, White Woodpecker and White-barred Piculet.

In the afternoon, we were lucky to spot a Hooded Berryeater, and we managed to secure great views of the most-wanted Purple-crowned Plovercrest. Other birds seen this afternoon included Dusky-tailed Antbird, Variable Antshrike, White-throated Woodcreeper, Streaked Xenops, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, the secretive Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Chestnut-crowned Becard, Blue Manakin, São Paulo Tyrannulet, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Rufous-capped Spinetail, Shear-tailed Grey Tyrant and Planalto Tyrannulet (Planalto is a Portuguese word used to refer high plains). We tried for Rusty-barred Owl in the evening, which gave us brief yet satisfactory views.

We enjoyed unbelievable views of Solitary Tinamou at Intervales State Park.

Day 3. Intervales State Park

Our last full day in Intervales saw us exploring the sections above the lower parts of the reserve. We had excellent encounters with White-eyed Foliage-gleaner, Rufous-headed Tanager, Diademed Tanager, Yellow-legged Thrush, Grey-hooded Attila, Outstalet’s Tyrannulet, (named after Jean Frédéric Émile Oustalet, a 19^th-century French ornithologist), the endemic Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher, Hangnest Tody-Tyrant, Greenish Schiffornis, White-throated Spadebill, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, (here of the sylviellus race), Squamate Antbird, Rufous Gnateater and Atlantic Black-throated Trogon. We tried hard to find the endemic and elusive Blue-bellied Parrot, and we had several brief fly-by views before they disappeared, not to be seen again. We also connected with Rufous-capped Antthrush, which was briefly seen by most of the group after flying around us in response to playback.

While walking along the forest tracks in the reserve, we spotted the striking and endangered  Black-fronted Piping Guan on the top of a tree, providing us with fantastic views.

However, the morning’s highlight came in the form of a Bare-throated Bellbird calling and displaying from the canopy of a tree. There was a sense of triumph in the air as we had been hearing the bellbird constantly for the past two days without any views. The group was thrilled to finally lay eyes on this iconic species.

The iconic Bare-throated Bellbird showed well in Intervales State Park.

The grand finale during our stay at Intervales State Park was our last owling session, which took us out of the park to look for the impressive Long-trained Nightjar – an Atlantic Forest endemic. As the sun set, we were treated to an unforgettable fly-by as a male cruised past us! What an experience.

Hooded Berryeater was one of many Brazilian endemics seen in Intervales State Park.

Day 4. Transfer to Trilha dos Tucanos

After a successful time birding in Intervales State Park, we continued to our base for the next two days, Trilha dos Tucanos Lodge, located in the Tapiraí municipality, which contains part of the Serra do Mar biosphere. This lodge gained popularity due to its easy access from São Paulo city. The lodge boasts comfortable accommodations, good food, and bird feeders, including hummingbird feeders, fruit feeders, and moth traps for insectivorous species. After a few hours, we arrived at the lodge and immediately found ourselves drawn to the bird feeders, where we were thrilled to discover large numbers of Plain Parakeets on the feeders, followed by Maroon-tailed Parakeets feasting on seeds. We had lovely views of Red-rumped Caciques at a colony and a Piratic Flycatcher.

We then had striking views of the gorgeous Blond-crested Woodpecker and an Olive-green Tanager (which, together with Dusky-faced, Olive-backed and Red-billed Pied Tanagers are the only four members of the family Mitrospingidae).

We enjoyed point-blank views of Olive-green Tanager, one of four members of the family Mitrospingidae.

After checking in to our accommodation and enjoying a delicious lunch, we walked around the area, but not before rechecking the feeders. We found Ken already waiting for us at the feeders. He showed us his excellent photos of the Blond-crested Woodpecker and a Saffron Toucanet – a bird high on everybody’s wish list for the trip. We waited around to see if it would show again. However, after a while with no luck, we decided to go for a walk which yielded several other fantastic birds including Buff-throated Purpletuft, Ochre-collared Piculet, Lesser Woodcreeper, Brazilian Ruby, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Pale-browed Treehunter, Pallid Spinetail, Three-striped Flycatcher, Grey-capped Tyrannulet, Masked Water Tyrant and Cliff Flycatcher. Sadly, there wasn’t an active Atlantic Royal Flycatcher nest this season, so we couldn’t repeat our excellent views of the species from our 2023 Southeast Brazil tour. We then spent the better part of an hour tracking down a vocal East Brazilian Pygmy Owl, which we eventually found calling in the sub-canopy and enjoyed great scope views.

Saffron Toucanet put on a show for us at Trilha dos Toucanos Lodge.

Day 5. Trilha dos Toucanos Lodge

We had an early start today to meet up at the moth trap, a roofed white screen that remains illuminated throughout the night, leaving behind a buffet for insectivorous species the following day. Within an hour we managed to see White-throated, Planalto, Olivaceous, Scalloped and Plain-winged Woodcreepers, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Sibilant Sirystes, Riverbank Warbler, Rufous-capped Spinetail, Tufted Antshrike, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Warbler and Ochre-rumped Antbird and we heard Western Fire-eye in the bushes behind the moth trap. Another bird seen briefly was the Black-throated Saltator, which Steve and Barbara missed on this occasion. We went back for breakfast, and after some mandatory coffee, we spent some time at the fruit feeders, where we finally had Saffron Toucanet and a few Magpie Tanagers.

Black Jacobins are abundant in the Atlantic Forests.

The hummingbird feeders were bursting with activity, producing great views of Black Jacobin, Festive Coquette, Brazilian Ruby, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Black-throated Mango, Versicolored Emerald, Sombre Hummingbird and Glittering-bellied Emerald.

The trails were quiet in the afternoon, but we managed to get a glimpse of a Solitary Tinamou and the briefest of views of a Variegated Antpitta; despite hearing this species at several locations on this trip, we never succeeded in getting satisfactory views. Unlike the antpitta, Lesser Woodcreeper showed very well on our afternoon walk.

An unexpected bonus came in the form of a Lowland Tapir and a Paca, both of which were being fed by the lodge staff and provided some delightful dinnertime entertainment.

Day 6. Transfer to Espinheiro Negro

After breakfast, we bid farewell to Trilha dos Toucanos, but not before finding a couple of Rufous-capped Motmots, another special of the Atlantic Forest.

We had quite a drive ahead of us to get to the wonderful Espinheiro Negro Lodge. This small and relatively new lodge focuses mainly on birding and photography and is run well by a charming couple. It has a very cosy atmosphere about it and delicious food. Visitors can relax by birding at the feeders and short trails leading away from the lodge. We ran to the feeders as soon as we arrived, where the participants drooled while feasting their eyes on the gorgeous Red-necked Tanager. This is a good site for the endemic and scarce Black-legged Dacnis during the winter months.

Rufous-capped Motmot at Trilha dos Toucanos, yet another Atlantic Forest endemic.

Other birds seen at the feeders included Chestnut-bellied and Violaceous Euphonias, Black-googled Tanager, Bananaquit, Blue Dacnis, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Brazilian Tanager, Green-headed Tanager and Golden-chevroned Tanager.

After lunch, we managed to get a glimpse of a single White-necked Hawk flying above the slopes, while Thomaz and Steve had our only Mantled Hawk for the trip.

We went to check the trails, including the hide for the Spot-winged Wood Quail, but alas, it was empty. The afternoon birding was quiet, but we still managed to add a few new species for the trip, like Flame-crested Tanager, Trilling Gnatwren, Plain Xenops, Plain Antvireo, Variable Antshrike and White-shouldered Fire-eye. Thanks to Thomaz, we picked up the most-wanted Black-headed Berryeater, which played hide and seek with us for a while, not giving us anything more than a silhouette.

Day 7. Espinheiro Negro and transfer to Peruibe

We met in the dining room for a mandatory coffee and then started our birding day with one plan: to see Black-headed Berryeater. We heard a Collared Forest Falcon calling near the lodge, and after a short round of playback, we were rewarded with brief but good views. We walked towards the Black-headed Berryeater territory, finding a Striated Heron and Ringed Kingfisher at a small pond. After another round of cat and mouse, we eventually managed to get everyone onto views of the berryeater.

We then spent some time at the hide, where we had a Ruddy Quail-Dove, which was new for the trip. We returned to the lodge for breakfast before continuing the journey towards Peruibe. Before we left, we called in once more at the hummingbird feeders in the garden, where we enjoyed views of Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Black Jacobin, Sombre Hummingbird and Festive Coquette. We also managed to see an Amethyst Woodstar as it fed in the Lantana flowers in front of the cabins.

We left Espinheiro Negro and made our way towards the coast of São Paulo in Peruibe, where we spent two nights. We arrived with enough time to do some afternoon birding in the mangrove zone together with our friend Fabio Barata, one of the area’s most experienced birders. We found Bicolored Conebill, Little Blue Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Snowy and Great Egrets, Cocoi Heron, Bare-faced Ibis and Scarlet Ibis, which was a highlight for several participants. Fabio informed us that the endemic Black-backed Tanager was very scarce with few recent sightings; however, his determination to show us the bird paid off, and we connected with a young male on the first afternoon!

Day 8. Peruibe

Today, we had one of the earliest starts of the trip; however, a full breakfast with freshly baked warm chocolate cake and good coffee helped prepare us for action at 04:30 am. After an hour’s drive, we arrived at the area where the endemic Red-tailed Amazon roosts. This endemic species is restricted to southeastern Brazil. In 1991, the species had a total global population of just 2,000 individuals, mainly due to habitat loss and poaching for the pet trade; however, successful conservation efforts have allowed the population to bounce back to 10,000-11,000 individuals. After arriving on-site, we enjoyed excellent views of this range-restricted parrot. Other birds in the area included Azure Jay, Buff-bellied Puffbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Star-throated Antwren and Long-billed Wren.

We then left the area and headed back to the site where we had seen the Black-backed Tanager the previous day. In addition to the juvenile male, we found a female near the mangroves. We dedicated some time to finding the secretive Little Wood Rail, but only Fabio and I managed to get a lightning glimpse of it on the shores of Peruibe.

We returned in the afternoon to try again, and on the way, we got a Rufous-winged Antwren and Grey-cowled Wood Rail. Upon arriving on the shores of Peruibe, we added Spotted Sandpiper, Neotropic Cormorant and Magnificent Frigatebird. Only at the eleventh hour did we get views of the shy and secretive Little Wood Rail.

We celebrated with caipirinhas (a Brazilian cocktail) after a spectacular time in Peruibe.

Day 9. Transfer to Ubatuba

On our last morning in Peruibe, we went to a house in a private condominium where Fabio knew about a Yellow-legged Tinamou which had been visiting a feeder; however, after an hour of waiting, we decided to move on to the next spot. Our time in the garden was not wasted though, as we saw several classic birds, including a pair of Saffron Toucanets, Wing-banded Hornero and Rufous-sided Crake; the latter showed well with patient waiting. We then went to the Atlantic shores, where we added Magnificent Frigatebird, Kelp Gull and Royal Tern. We were surprised by a pair of Burrowing Owls at a charming boulevard park by the shore.

Our time in Peruibe came to an end, and we continued our trip towards Ubatuba, a famous beach municipality among birders in the state of São Paulo, with 83% of its area located in the Serra do Mar State Park. We had the longest drive of the trip, covering 220 miles (350 kilometers), which took over four hours. We arrived at our comfortable hotel in time to get some rest before another busy day’s birding tomorrow.

Day 10. Ubatuba and Jonas’s feeders

As usual, we were up early and left after a hearty breakfast to explore the Atlantic Forests at the buffer zone of the Serra do Mar State Park. Some of the birds we saw this morning included Scaly-headed Parrot (here of the melanoblepharus race), Sick’s Swift (Named after the 20^th-century German ornithologist Helmut Sick),Green-backed Trogon, Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Streak-capped Antwren and the elusive Spotted Bamboowren which showed well but in harsh light, making it tricky to see the bird’s plumage features. Black-cheeked Gnateater, Long-billed Wren, Lesser Woodcreeper, the endemic Orange-eyed Thornbird, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner and Pale-browed Treehunter also put in an appearance for us.

Other birds seen this morning included Black-capped Becard, Blond-crested Woodpecker and Black Hawk-Eagle, which perched and provided prolonged scope views.

The diminutive Festive Coquette was a regular feature of most hummingbird feeders on the trip.

After a productive morning, we had lunch with a view over some very active feeders where we picked up Rufous-bellied Thrush, Blue Dacnis, Green Honeycreeper, Green-headed, Red-necked, Sayaca, Palm, Golden-chevroned and Ruby-crowned Tanagers and a White-necked Thrush which was a new addition to the burgeoning trip list.

Red-necked Tanager is a stunning bird (photo Ken Hashagen)!

After lunch, we went to the Jonas’s gardens, where we spent some time at the hummingbird feeders. We reconnected with the previously seen Violet-capped Woodnymph, Brazilian Ruby, Sombre Hummingbird and Black Jacobin and added new species, such as the endemic Saw-billed Hermit and White-chinned Sapphire.

The forest behind the property was quiet during the heat of the day, so we only walked a short way down one of the trails to try for Slaty Bristlefront, which showed well to everyone. We then returned to the vehicle and made our way back to the hotel for another round of caipiriñas to celebrate another excellent day out in the field.

Day 11. Ubatuba

Today, we spent an entire morning exploring key sites above Ubatuba, where we had several great encounters with birds like Whiskered Myiobius, the endemic Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant, Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant, Scaled Antbird, the endemic and vulnerable Salvadori’s Antwren, (named after Tommaso Salvadori, 1835-1923, an Italian doctor and ornithologist), the endemic Unicolored Antwren, Ferruginous Antbird, Star-throated Antwren, Streak-capped Antwren, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Scaled Woodcreeper, Ochre–breasted Foliage-gleaner, the endemic Orange-eyed Thornbird, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner, White–bearded Manakin, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Grey-hooded Flycatcher, Fuscous Flycatcher, Variegated Flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher, Buffy-fronted Seedeater, White-thighed Swallow, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Red-eyed Vireo and Temminck’s Seedeater, an Atlantic forest bamboo specialist. Additionally, we managed to get good views of Rusty-margined Guan and Nine-banded Armadillo.

Blond-crested Woodpecker was one of the favourites of the trip.

Day 12. Transfer to Itatiaia State Park

We left Ubatuba and drove towards the municipality of Itatiaia in Rio de Janeiro state. Our next destination was the Itatiaia National Park, the oldest park in Brazil, established in 1937, where we stayed at the Hotel de Ype – our base for the next three nights.

We arrived at the lodge in time for lunch and enjoyed a showy male Frilled Coquette as he went about foraging at the hummingbird feeders. Although this is a reliable site for the coquette, it can be tricky here at times. Other species seen during the remaining daylight hours included White-throated Hummingbird, White-eyed Parakeet, Dusky-legged Guan, Blue-winged Macaw flying above the lodge, Plumbeous Pigeon, White-collared Swift, White-spotted Woodpecker, White-barred Piculet and Robust Woodpecker.

Day 13. Itatiaia State Park

Our plan for today was to explore the forest trails and bird around the abandoned hotel (the pink ghost palace). The trails were quiet, and the birding was slow. However, we managed to get Plumbeous Pigeon, a covey of Spot-winged Wood Quails, Surucuá Trogon, White-spotted Woodpecker, Rufous-capped Motmot, Scaly-headed Parrot, Variable Antshrike, Ferruginous Antbird, Rufous Gnateater, Streaked Xenops, Gilt-edged Tanager and the undisputed highlight of the morning – Black-billed Scythebill – what a bird!

We tried hard to elicit views from the endemic White-bibbed Antbird, which, after much effort, was seen well, but all too briefly. We heard the elusive Cryptic Antthrush along the narrowest part of the trail, however, our attempts at laying eyes on the bird were futile.

We then went to the abandoned hotel where we looked for Half-collared Sparrow, which proved elusive this year, despite our best efforts. We managed to get views of the endemic Velvety Black Tyrant, Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch, Short-crested Flycatcher, the endemic White-collared Foliage-gleaner, Long-tailed Tyrant, Yellow-legged Thrush, Pin-tailed Manakin, Tropical Parula and Robust Woodpecker.

After our action-packed morning, we spent a leisurely afternoon looking for hummingbirds, trying to get better views of Blue-winged Macaws, and attempting to find a Tawny-browed Owl in the evening, which was not in the neighbourhood today. From the lodge grounds, it was possible to see some distant fires that had recently affected massive parts of Brazil and several other countries in South America. A sombre sight indeed.

Day 14. Itatiaia Agulhas Negras

Today, we explored the park’s upper reaches at the base of the Agulhas Negras Mountain, the fifth highest peak in Brazil at 9,156 feet (2,791 meters) above sea level. We had a productive time birding here, finding species such as White-tailed Hawk, White-vented Violetear, Rufous-backed Antvireo, Crested Becard, White-crested Tyrannulet, Yellow-legged Thrush, Diademed Tanager, Buff-throated Warbling Finch, Fawn-breasted Tanager, the handsome Brassy-breasted Tanager, Thick-billed Saltator, Great Pampa Finch and Itatiaia Spinetail. We tried hard for a vocal Rufous-capped Antshrike (which did not show) and the skulking Large-tailed Antshrike, which eventually showed well for the whole group. We got views of the endemic Blue-billed Black Tyrant; the female showed well, but the male only gave us glimpses. We heard Mouse-colored Tapaculo and added Serra do Mar Bristle Tyrant. The highlight, however, was the endemic Black-and-gold Cotinga, which we saw in the open alongside a Swallow-tailed Cotinga.

After a successful morning, we started our journey back to the hotel. On our way back, we passed through patches of open grassland habitat where we managed to see Savanna Hawk and Toco Toucan from the vehicle, the latter unfortunately not seen by everyone.

In the afternoon, we birded the road down from Hotel Ype, finding interesting species such as Black-eared Fairy, Crested Black Tyrant, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Southern Tropical Pewee, the endemic Orange-eyed Thornbird building a nest, Red-rumped Cacique, Streaked Flycatcher and Dusky-legged Guan.

After dusk, we tried for Short-tailed Nighthawk, which showed well in response to a whistling imitation of its call. We heard the scarce Buff-fronted Owl call within close proximity to us, however, unfortunately, the bird was chased off by a Tropical Screech Owl, before we could get any views of it. We spent some time spotlighting and found the bizarre-looking Paraguian Hairy Dwarf Porcupine, which was a lifer for all of us. Before calling it a night, we enjoyed watching this unique creature go about its arboreal lifestyle.

Day 15 Itatiaia and transfer to São Paulo airport

For the first time on the trip, we had a relaxed morning around the lodge as we bid farewell to many of the fantastic species we had been seeing over the past two weeks. This trip was memorable for all participants, who thoroughly enjoyed the experience of birding the Atlantic Rainforests and admiring the wonderful birds on offer.

We left the hotel and stopped at a viewpoint in the park, where we added a couple of new species, including Burnished-buff Tanager and the vulnerable Buffy-fronted Seedeater, which was a nice addition to the trip list.

We then continued our four-hour drive back to São Paulo with a final stop where we added Orange-headed Tanager. The drive to Guarulhos International Airport passed without event, and after saying our goodbyes, we connected with our international flights home.

The range-restricted and endemic Saw-billed Hermit showed well for us at Jonas (photo Ken Hashagen).

Bird List – Following IOC (14.2)

Birds ‘heard only’ are marked with (H) after the common name, all other species were seen.

Mammal List

The following notation after species names is used to show conservation status following the IUCN Red List:
EN = Endangered, VU = Vulnerable.

Reptile & Amphibians List

This is a sample trip report. Please email us ([email protected]) for more trip reports from this destination.